Nikko Toshogu Shrine – Tokugawa Ieyasu’s Vision of Peace Beyond Death
Nikko Toshogu Shrine enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616, 徳川家康), the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, who laid the foundation for a peaceful era that lasted for 260 years.
After bringing an end to centuries of warfare, Ieyasu sought not only to rule in life, but to secure lasting prosperity and national peace even after his death. His life was marked by constant adversities: fourteen years as a hostage at the Oda and Imagawa clans, the Ikko uprising of the Jodo Shinsu sect during his youth at Okazaki Castle, defeat at the hands of Takeda Shingen, and a death-defying escape from Sakai city by crossing a pathless route.
From his base at Hamamatsu Castle to the strategic transfer of his domain to Edo, Ieyasu steadily consolidated power and finally settled the turmoil in 1615 after the Siege of Osaka, just one year before his death. He chose Nikko as his final resting place to safeguard successive Shoguns in Edo (Tokyo) and the peace of the nation for generations. By choosing Nikko, positioned between Edo (Tokyo) and Sunpu (Shizuoka), Ieyasu believed he could continue to safeguard the nation even after death.

Ieyasu's Spirit Protected Edo Castle & the Nation Eternally


Nikko Toshogu Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was established in 1617 to enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate (1603-1868). After his passing in 1616 at the age of 75, Ieyasu's body was first buried at Kunozan Toshogu Shrine in Shizuoka, facing west. His funeral was held at Zojoji Temple in Edo, while his tablets were placed at the Tokugawa family temple, Daijuji Temple, near Okazaki Castle, where he was born. According to Ieyasu's last will, his spirit was ceremonially transferred to Nikko Toshogu Shrine after the first anniversary of his death, marking the final stage of his enshrinement.
Nikko Toshogu Shrine is located at the intersection of two significant lines. The first is an extended line connecting Kunōzan Toshogu Shrine and Mount Fuji, while the second is a northerly extended line from Edo.
The first line passes through Mount Fuji (富士), which can also be written with the characters 不死, meaning “immortality.” It is believed that Tokugawa Ieyasu’s spirit traveled from Kunōzan to Nikko by passing over Mount Fuji, gaining “immortality” through this journey.
The second line runs from south to north. In Japanese cosmology, the north represents the supreme god of space. In the northern night sky, Polaris—the North Star—is revered as a symbol of this supreme deity. At Nikko Toshogu Shrine, Polaris is positioned directly above the center line of the Yōmeimon Gate, which stands before the Honden (Main Hall).
Tenkai, a prominent priest of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, established the veneration of Tokugawa Ieyasu as Tōshōgū Daigongen. This title refers to a divine manifestation assumed by Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and other sacred beings to save all sentient beings.
Laid the Foundations of a 260-year Peaceful Era

In his final years, Ieyasu implemented a wide range of policies to ensure that Japan would never return to an age of turmoil. It was the culmination of a long journey spanning more than 70 years of his life. These measures laid the foundations for what would become 260 years of Pax-Tokugawana.
His policies were far-reaching and carefully executed in every direction. They included a shift from a purely military regime to a civilian-based system of governance, the establishment of hereditary succession by a legitimate son, and strict control over temples and the imperial court. Ieyasu also carried out economic reforms, including the regulation of foreign trade, imposed religious controls - most notably on Christianity - and promoted education as a means of social stability.
Measures against Feudal Lords to Rule the Nation
During the Warring States period (1467-1590), Ieyasu witnessed firsthand the instability of power based on solely on strength, where the strong prevailed but often failed to secure lasting succession. Many warlords rose through superior military, intellectual, and economic prowess, supported by strong leadership, yet their domains frequently collapsed upon the death of a charismatic ruler. Such figures included Imagawa Yoshimoto (1519-1560,今川義元), Takeda Shingen (1521-1753,武田信玄), Hojo Ujiyasu (1515-1571, 北条氏康), Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582,織田信長), and Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598,豊臣秀吉).



Ieyasu
Learning from these failures, Ieyasu placed great importance on clear succession. He designated Iemitsu (1604-1651, 徳川家光), the heir of the second shogun Hidetada (1579-1632, 徳川秀忠), as the third shogun, rather than choosing Iemitsu's capable younger brother. This decision firmly established primogeniture - the inheritance by the eldest son - as the foundation of the Tokugawa line.
At the same time, Ieyasu did not envision governance by a single, all-powerful shogun. Instead, he designed an administrative system in which capable individuals were assigned appropriate roles, allowing the shogunate to function through organizational strength rather than personal authority alone.
To complete the transition from military rule to civil governance, Ieyasu implemented three major measures.
First, in 1615, he enacted the Acts for the Military Houses, which strictly regulated the conduct of feudal lords.
Second, he issued the Law of One Castle per Province, ordering the destruction of all castles except those used as a domain's main seat. As a result, nearly 3,000 castles were reduced to about 170, significantly weakening the military power of the feudal lords, particularly those in western Japan who had supported the Toyotomi clan.
Third, Ieyasu strengthened strategic control by constructing and reorganizing key castles under Tokugawa authority. OsakaCastle, originally built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, was dismantled and replaced with Tokugawa Osaka Castle, bringing the region under direct shogunate control.
Nagoya Castle was built along the vital Tokaido route connecting Osaka, Kyoto, and Edo, with Ieyasu's ninth son, Yoshinao (1601-1650, 徳川義直), appointed as its first load. Wakayama Castle, controlling the sea routes around the Kii Peninsula, was expanded and entrusted to his tenth son, Yorinobu (1602-1671, 徳川頼宣). In addition, Hikone Castle was constructed as a strategic point guarding access to Kyoto and governed by Ii Naomasa (1561-1602, 井伊直政), one of Ieyasu's most trusted generals.
Measures for Temples

During the Warring States period, major temples wielded military, administrative, and economic power independent of the authorities. In their efforts to unify the nation, warlords sought to restore temples to their original religious roles while suppressing those that defied political control. Oda Nobunaga attacked Enryakuji and Osaka Honganji, while Toyotomi Hideyoshi destroyed the Negoroji Temple and demanded the surrender of Mount Koya. In his youth, Tokugawa Ieyasu also experienced conflict with Honganji within his territory.
After assuming control of national unification, Ieyasu appointed Suden, a Rinzai priest, to incorporate Buddhist institutions into the governance of the Edo shogunate. First, the privileges temples had enjoyed since the Middle Ages were curtailed. Temples were reorganized by strengthening the authority of head temples and clearly defining their relationships with subordinate temples. This system significantly enhanced centralized control over religious institutions nationwide.
Measures for the Imperial Court
During the Warring States period, the authority of the imperial court declined significantly as political power shifted to military leaders. Ieyasu understood that emperors remained symbols of legitimacy and that the imperial court was essential for legitimizing shogunal rule.
At the same time, Ieyasu sought to prevent the court from exercising independent political power. Although the emperor retained the authority to appoint a shogun. Ieyasu issued the Laws for the Imperial and Court Officials to regulate the court's political activities. Through these measures, he aimed to preserve the dignity of the imperial institution while ensuring that it remained a cultural and ceremonial authority. Ieyasu emphasized that the most important duty of an emperor was the study of how to be a good ruler. He mentioned:
No emperor in history had achieved stable governance and lasting peace without learning from the successes and failures of past rulers. In addition, emperors were expected to cultivate courtly disciplines such as scholarship, musical arts including wind and string instruments, and waka (classical Japanese poetry).
In addition, Ieyasu arranged for his granddaughter Masako to marry Emperor Gomizunoo, thereby establishing a familial connection with the emperor.
Measures to Lay the Groundwork for Enhancing the Economy

When Ieyasu entered Edo (Tokyo) in 1590, the Tone River, the largest river in the Kanto region, flowed north to south through the town and emptied into Edo Bay rather than the Pacific Ocean. This posed a constant threat of flooding and hindered large-scale urban development.
Recognizing the strategic importance of water control, Ieyasu appointed Ina Tadatsugu (1550-1610, 伊奈忠次), a samurai and senior bureaucrat with extensive expertise in civil engineering, to undertake an unprecedented project: redirecting the Tone River eastward by altering its course. This massive undertaking successfully diverted the river toward the Pacific Ocean. As a result, Edo was protected from frequent flooding, vast new rice fields were developed across the Kanto Plain, and an extensive system of water transportation was established. These achievements laid the economic foundation for Edo's growth into one of the largest cities in Japan.
After the Battle of Sekigahara, Ieyasu strengthened the financial base of the shogunate by placing the gold mines of Sado Island and Kanayama in Yamanashi prefecture and the silver mines of Iwami and Ikuno under the direct control of the shogunate. He also established a monetary system based on gold and silver to make coins, laying the foundation for the economy and trade.
After the Battle of Sekigahara, Ieyasu strengthened the financial base of the shogunate by placing the gold mines of Sado Island and Kanayama, as well as the silver mines of Iwami in Shimane Prefecture and Ikuno in Hyogo Prefecture, under the direct control of the shogunate. He also established a monetary system based on gold, silver, and coins, laying a solid foundation for the economy and trade.
Establishing Trade Relations Globally
Ieyasu pursued strengthening domestic economic activities while also seeking to establish trade relations with other nations. During this period, he was relatively tolerant of Christian missionary activities. However, the biggest obstacle he faced was the loss of trust from foreign countries following Toyotomi Hideyoshi's invasion of Korea, the decree to expel the missionaries, and the crucifixion of the Twenty-six Martyrs of Japan. Regaining international trust proved to be a significant challenge.

@Kobe City Museum
To restore diplomatic and trade relations, Ieyasu sent letters to several countries, including Korea, Namban such as Spain and Portugal, England, and the Netherlands, expressing his intention to initiate trade. Relations with Joseon Korea were gradually restored through sustained efforts on both sides. Eventually, Korean envoys were welcomed in Edo (Tokyo), and officials from the Edo shogunate were dispatched in return to Pusan.
Ieyasu's trade network extended widely, encompassing China and Southeast Asian countries, as well as Korea, through official envoys and the Tsushima domain. Trade relations were also established with Western nations such as Spain, Portugal, the Netherlands, and England. However, under the rule of the second shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada, policies shifted toward isolation, accompanied by the prohibition of Christianity.
Promoting Culture and Education

Ieyasu promoted the Confucian scholar Hayashi Razan and adopted Shushigaku (Neo-Confucianism) as the official ideology of the shogunate. This philosophy emphasized five virtues - benevolence, justice, courtesy, wisdom, and sincerity - as well as a clear hierarchical order. By clarifying the moral principles and social rules that people were expected to follow, Ieyasu guided society away from the chaos of war toward an era of moral governance.
Ieyasu also established the Fujimi-no-Tei library in Edo Castle. It houses an extensive collection of reference works on government administration, ancient precedents, and culture for the shogun's use. These books were also lent to senior retainers, magistrates, scholars, and feudal lords. This initiative greatly accelerated the spread of learning and became the foundation of the shogunate's civilian administration.

@TOPPAN Holdings Inc. Printing Museum, Tokyo
By encouraging movable-type printing, Ieyasu made important texts more widely available. One notable example was New Azuma-kagami, a historical record of the Kamakura Shogunate (1185-1333), which had previously been restricted text. Its publication contributed to the dissemination of political and administrative knowledge among feudal lords.
During Ieyasu’s rule, education for common people also began to take root. As economic activities expanded in the peaceful era, townspeople and farmers increasingly sought education in reading, writing, and arithmetic. Learning extended to practical fields such as commerce, land ownership, and financial transactions, as well as the cultivation of strong moral values. After Ieyasu's death, these books were shared with his three sons: Yoshinao in Owari, Yorinobu in Kishu, and Yorifusa in Mito domains. The foundations he laid would further support the spread of education throughout society.
Ieyasu, the Guardian Deity of Japan


Even after his death, Tokugawa Ieyasu was believed to continue protecting Japan in peace. At Nikko Toshogu Shrine, the famous Sleeping Cat, carved on the Yomeimon Gate with a sparrow engraved on its reverse side, symbolizes a world so secure that even a cat may sleep while its natural prey lives unharmed. It is a quiet yet powerful image of peace achieved through his vision: to establish a lasting era of peace.
Ieyasu's final message captures this ideal:
"The world belongs to the world, not to one person."
Tokugawa Ieyasu Timeline
| 1600 | The Battle of Sekigahara. Tokugawa Ieyasu defeated Ishida Mitsunari | 59 |
| 1602 | Tokugawa Ieyasu established the Fujimi-no-Tei library | 61 |
| 1603 | Tokugawa Ieyasu established Tokugawa Shogunate at Edo | 62 |
| 1603 | Ieyasu built Nijo-jo Caslte | 62 |
| 1605 | Tokugawa Hidetada became the 2nd Shogun of Tokugawa Shogunate | 64 |
| 1607 | Ieyasu moved to Sunpu Castle. | 66 |
| 1607 | The first Korean envoy came to Edo | 66 |
| 1609 | Ieyasu permitted to trade with the Netherlands | 68 |
| 1612 | Ieyasu built Nagoyajo Caslte | 71 |
| 1613 | Ieyasu permitted to trade with the Britian | 72 |
| 1614/11 | The Winter Siege of Osaka | 73 |
| 1615/05 | The Summer Siege of Osaka. Toyotomi clan ended. | 74 |
| 1615/07 | Tokugawa Issued a set of regulations that applied to the emperor and the court nobles | 74 |
| 1615 | Tokugawa Issued a set of various laws for warrior class families | 74 |
| 1615 | Tokugawa Issued a set of various laws for temples | 74 |
| 1615/08 | Tokugawa issued the Law of One Castle per Province | 74 |
| 1616 | Ieyasu passed away at the age of 75 | 75 |
| 1617 | The spirit of Ieyasu was enshrined at Nikko Toshogu Shrine | - |
| 1619 | Tokugawa Yorinobu became the first lord of the Kishu domain | - |
| 1623 | Tokugawa Iemistu became the 3rd Shogun of Tokugawa Shogunate | - |
Recommendations to visit
- Access: 2 hours from Asakusa to Tobu Nikko Station. Get on the bus to Omotesando bus stop, then a 2-minute walk.
- Access: 50 minutes from JR Shizuoka Station to Nihondaira Ropeway on Shizutetsu Justline bus. 5 minutes ropeway to Kunosan, then a 2-minute walk.
- Access: A 10-minute walk from JR Tokyo Station


