Kiyomizu-dera: Tamuramaro, the Warror Who Conquered the North with Kannon's Blessings

Kiyomizu-dera, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site, is not only one of Kyoto's most iconic temples, but also the spritual backdrop to the story of Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, a noble warrior who sought victory through faith in Kannon.
In the late 8th and early 9th centuries, Tamuramaro was tasked with subduing the Emishi (indigenous peoples of northeastern Japan), led by the formidable Aterui. His campaigns in the northeast became legendary, shaping the early expansion of imperial Japan. Tradition holds that his devotion to Kannon, the Eleven-headed Thousand-armed Bodhisattva enshrined at Kiyomizu-dera, guided him through these struggles.
Founded in 778, merely six years before the capital relocation to Kyoto Heian-kyo from Nara’s Heijo-kyo, on the slopes of Mt. Otowa, the temple later became renowned for its dramatic wooden stage extending from the Main Hall. This sacred space has long served as a setting for performances dedicated to Kannon, including Noh and Kabuki. Among them, the Noh play Tamura reimagines the general’s story, blending history, legend, and faith.

The Noh play, Tamura

One spring day, a monk from an eastern Province visited Kiyomizu-dera Temple and encountered a boy holding a broom. When the monk inquired about the history of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, the boy began recounting that it was built by shogun, Sakanoue no Tamuramaro (758-811, 坂上田村麻呂). While a fleeting moment, the boy and monk relished the cherry blossoms of Kiyomizu-dera Temple. At night, as the monk recited the Lotus Sutra, the spirit of Tamuramaro, adorned in warrior attire, materialized in the dimness and started to talk, "I was appointed shogun to conquer the enemy to secure the nation. Thus, I offered prayers for Kannon’s support with my forces. With gratitude for the power of Kannon, I successfully defeated the enemies." 

The main attractions are the beauty of a spring evening adorned with cherry blossoms and moonlight at Kiyomizu-dera Temple, where a boy embodying the incarnation of Tamuramaro appears. In addition, the narrative unfolds the triumph and celebration of Tamuramaro, who is associated with the founding of Kiyomizu-dera, as he overcomes his enemies with the blessing of Kannon's divine power.

Tohoku on the Eve of the Appearance of Shogun, Tamuramaro

After the completion of the Taiho Code in 701, the Yamato Imperial Court promoted the establishment of the nation based on the ritsuryo (ancient Japanese legal code system). For this, in 708, Emperor Genmei issued an imperial order to relocate the capital from Asuka to Heijo-kyo, situated in the heart of Nara - a vast capital city spanning 2,500 hectares. Construction began in 709. Shortly thereafter, a rebellion by the Emishi erupted in the undeveloped Tohoku region. The Imperial Court dispatched a shogun to quell the rebellion and appointed officials to address the Tohoku residents who opposed the Imperial Court, constructing fortresses and fences. In 724, the Imperial Court established Taga Castle (Taga Fence) as a stronghold in the northeast to fortify and govern the Tohoku region.

The Holy War of Aterui Echoes through the Mountains and Rivers

As the Imperial Court forces, numbering over 50,000 men, expanded their territory into the Tohoku region, Aterui (Late 8th to early 9th century, 阿弖流為), the leader of the Emishi, emerged to defend the Tohoku homeland. The Emishi army, under Aterui’s command, constituted only one-tenth of the total Imperial Court forces. Despite the numerical disadvantages, Aterui strategically utilized the geographical features, dispersing the large Imperial Army, enticing them into a defile, and employing guerrilla warfare tactics to secure victory in battle. The resonance of this conflict echoed through the mountains and rivers, perpetuating the high morale of the Emishi warriors as the holy war persisted.

Shogun, Sakanoue no Tamuramaro Conquers the Emishi

Faced with the challenge of subduing the Emishi, Emperor Kanmu (737-806, 桓武天皇) appointed Tamuramaro as the barbarian general and dispatched a formidable army of 100,000 men to conquer the region. Tamuramaro, in a gesture of dedication, donated his house, contributed to the construction of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, and is reputed to have sought victory through prayers to Kannon (although an alternate theory exists). After 13 years of conflict, in 801, Aterui and his co-leader, More, surrendered, along with his second-in-command. Tamuramaro petitioned the Imperial Court to spare Aterui's life as a practical approach to governing the Tohoku region, but both were executed. In the reign of Emperor Kanmu during the Nara and early Heian periods, Tamuramaro contributed greatly to the pacification of the Emishi in Tohoku, playing a key role in achieving national unity. Additionally, Tamuramaro quelled the Kusuko Incident during the reign of Emperor Kanmu's son, Emperor Saga, earning immense trust from the Imperial Court. He ultimately concluded his military career at the age of 54.

Aterui, The Brave of the Northern Sky

On the way to the Sanmon Gate, with the beauty of the kake-zukuri technique behind you, a memorial monument dedicated to Aterui and More stands on the left side. Inscribed with "Brave of the Northern Sky," this monument pays homage to Tamuramaro and Aterui, two formidable warriors who engaged in sword duels in the Tohoku region during the Heian period.

Amazing Kake-zukuri Architecture on a Cliff

Descending the stairs from the stage, on your right side, you’ll notice that it’s constructed on a cliff supported by 18 poles made from over 400-year-old zelkova. Several cypress poles crisscross them horizontally without being fixed by nails. This architectural technique is known as Kake-zukuri (the overhang method) designed to resist earthquakes when built on a cliff. The structure’s ability to withstand weathering, particularly rainfall, is equally significant in its design. The stage is slightly inclined to facilitate rainwater drainage into the ground. Each protruding end of the wooden beams has a small wooden roof to shield the wood from rain.

Sakanoue no Tamuramaro Timeline

710	Relocation of the capital to Heijo-kyo in Nara from Asuka	-	Nara Period
743	Todaiji Great Buddha construction started till 752	-
749	Emperor Shomu abdicated from the throne	-
758	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro was born	Age=1
778	Kiyomizu-dera was established	21
780	Sananoue-no-Tamuramaro donated his house to Kiyomizu-dera	23
781	Emperor Kanmu was throned	24
791	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro deployed to Tohoku	34
794	The relocation of the capital to the city to Heian-kyo in Kyoto	37	Heian Period
794	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro conqured Emishi	37
797	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro was appointed shogun	40
801	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro deploed to Tohoku	44
802	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro started to build Isawa Castle	45
802	Aterui fell to the Imperial Army and was ecuted	45
806	Emperor Kanmu passed away, Emperor Heizei ascended the throne	49
809	Emperor Heizei abdicated and Emperor Saga ascended the throne	52
810	Kusuko incident occurred	53
811	Sakanoue no Tamuramaro passed away	54

Recommendations to visit

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

• Access: Get on #206 bus bound for Kitaoji bus terminal (北大路バスターミナル) via Higasihama-dori or #100 bound for Ginkaku-ji (銀閣寺) via Kiyomizu-dera Gion at Kyoto Station. Get off at Gojozaka stop (五条坂) and a 10-minute walk.