Heian Jingu Shrine: When was Kyoto the capital of Japan?

Heian Jingu Shrine enshrines the spirits of the first and last emperors who governed the nation in Kyoto, the old capital of Japan, for over 1100 years, spanning from 794 to 1868. Passing through the vermilion Otorii gate, the Otenmon gate leads you into the interior of the Heian Jingu Shrine. The bright vermillion color of the pillars of the main hall given coats of the red-colored "Bengara" catches your eye. It enshrines the spirits of Emperor Kanmu, the first emperor of the Heian period (794–1185), and Emperor Komei, the last emperor to rule at Heian-kyo Palace. In the springtime, the sight of the cherry blossoms in full bloom, especially the weeping cherry blossoms on the sprays, is breathtaking. Throughout much of the year, visitors can also enjoy a variety of blooming flowers, including irises, water lilies, plum trees, and more.

The old capital Kyoto, where the emperors resided over generations for over 1100 years

The Heian Jingu Shrine was rebuilt in 1895 at the center of Kyoto to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the establishment of the Heian-kyo palace by the 50th Emperor Kanmu (737-806, 桓武天皇). Emperor Kanmu left the existing Heijo-kyo palace in Nara prefecture for Nagaoka palace in the west area of Kyoto prefecture in 784 and then moved on again to the Heian palace in 794. From that time, Kyoto served as Japan’s capital for over 1100 years until 1869. The Daigoku-den (the council hall in the Imperial Palace), Otenmon gate, and some other buildings of the ancient Heian-kyo capital were reconstructed on a smaller scale, 5/8 in size, with bright red-colored "Bengara" or colcothar tiled roofs. In 1940, the 121st Emperor Komei’s (1831-1867, 孝明天皇) spirit was also enshrined to commemorate the 2600 years of the Imperial era because he was the last Emperor at the Heian Palace.

Emperor Kanmu relocated the capital from Nara to Kyoto

In 770, the 37th Emperor Konin (709-782, 光仁天皇) ascended to the throne, marking the first time in 125 years that an emperor from the lineage of Emperor Tenji (626-672, 天智天皇) had ruled. Until then, the heritage of emperors over the 8-generation had previously been succeeded by the Tenmu lineage after the Jinshin War, the largest coup d'état in ancient times, launched by Emperor Temmu (?-686, 天武天皇) in 645. 10 years later, the 38th Emperor Kanmu ascended to the throne in 781. The accession of Emperor Kanmu was reportedly formed by the political machinations of the Fujiwara clan, the largest supporter of the Tenji line. Before his ascension, numerous political battles occurred, resulting in the loss of positions and lives of most of the princes and princesses from the Tenmu lineage. One significant event was the imprisonment and death of the crown prince, Emperor Kanmu's half-brother, and his mother, who were members of the Tenmu lineage. This marked the Tenmu lineage's decline and the Tenji lineage's rise to power.

The 3 reasons for the relocation: Buddhists, Tenmu linage, and Tatari

There were several factors in the relocation of the capital from Nara to Nagaoka-kyo and then to Kyoto. Emperor Kanmu wanted to build a new era by leaving the Heijo-kyo palace in Nara. Firstly, he wanted to eliminate the influence of Buddhism, especially the Todaiji Temple built by Emperor Shomu (701-756, 聖武天皇). This resulted in the Buddhist priests gaining political power, beyond the control of Imperial court nobles. Emperor Kanmu attempted to curb their influence by forbidding temples, including Todaiji, from moving to Kyoto. Instead, he supported the growth of new forms of Buddhism, such as those founded by Saicho, a founder of the Tendai sect, and Kukai, a founder of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism, which promised a bright future. His prince, Emperor Saga (786-842, 嵯峨天皇), also continued to support them. Secondly, he wanted to establish a new nation independent of the control of the nobles from the Temmu lineage. Lastly, he feared Tatari of those who met an untimely demise in Nara and Nagaoka.

Emperor Kanmu built the base of the 1100-years long capital in Kyoto

In addition, he desired to open a strategic river route to the Seto Inland Sea for trade. Furthermore, he succeeded in suppressing Emishi in the Tohoku area, which had been a concern for the court noble. Despite facing numerous challenges, such as the eruption of Mt.Kirishima in Kyushu and a smallpox epidemic, Emperor Kanmu worked tirelessly to establish the foundation of the nation, which lasted over 1100 years. His political acumen and experience in his ascension to the throne were advantageous and contributed to his success.

Emperor Komei was the emperor who lived through the toughest of times

In 1850, frequent winds and floods plagued the nation, followed by a series of massive earthquakes between 1854 and 1860, a huge fire that ravaged Kyoto, and a cholera epidemic in 1858, amongst other crises. In addition, In 1853, the U.S. fleet demanded Japan's opening to the world. This caused internal division between opening wing and expelling foreigners, weakening the Tokugawa Shogunate, and bringing Emperor Komei to the forefront. Faced with such difficult times, Emperor Komei took action by praying to deities for the peace and tranquility of the nation. He also ordered seven shrines and seven temples to pray for peace and tranquility as well. However, the most significant national crisis for him was the appearance of Western Powers. To combat this, he went to Shimogamo, Kamigamo Shrines, and Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine to pray. It marked the first time in 240 years for an emperor to go out of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Emperor Komei was the embodiment of what an emperor should do first in times of national crisis: " praying for the nation and people".

Emperor Komei’s reality to collaborate with Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu

Emperor Komei approved his sister, Princess Kazunomiya, to marry the 14th Shogun, Tokugawa Iemochi, in 1862. It was aimed at dealing with difficult situations. It was called “Kobu-gattai” (reconciliation between the imperial court and the shogunate). However, the swell of the times was fierce for him. In 1863, the Choshu domain carried out the “Joi” (expelling foreigners) by bombarding foreign ships of the United States, Britain, France, and the Netherlands passing through the Bakan Strait (Shimonoseki War). The Satsuma domain also fought fiercely with the British and its castle town in Kagoshima was reduced to ashes (Anglo-Satsuma War). After the Choshu domain was expelled from Kyoto by the imperial order of Emperor Komei, due to its very radical maneuver of Joi in the court. However, they aimed to regain power. In 1864, they clashed with Shinsengumi and other Shogunate forces guarding the Kyoto Imperial Palace in front of the Hamagurimon gate and opened fire on the Palace. The battle lasted only a day, but the wind-fanned fire of war destroyed a large area of Kyoto. Under the fierce debate over whether to open the country or exclude foreign countries, and whether to overthrow the shogunate or Kobu-gattai, Emperor Komei suddenly passed away of disease with high fever in 1867.

With the demise of Emperor Komei, who had promoted the Kobu-gattai, the anti-Tokugawa faction gained the upper hand in the court. At last, the 15th Shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu returned political power to the emperor (Taisei Hokan) at Nijojo Castle, ending the 260-year-long Edo period. In the first year of the Meiji period, the 122nd Emperor Meiji designated Edo Castle as his imperial residence. Here, the role of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, where the emperor resided, ended with Emperor Komei.

Jidai Matsuri (Festival of Ages) in Kyoto

On October 22nd, the Jidai Matsuri festival, known as the Festival of Ages, is held yearly, one of Kyoto’s great three festivals (Aoi, Gion, and Jidai). A large parade of approximately 2,000 participants walks from Kyoto Imperial Palace to Heian Jingu Shrine. This festival gives you an experience of the history and culture of Kyoto as if you time-travel an 1100-year history, starting the Heian period (794-1192) through the turbulent end of the Edo period (1603-1868). People wearing costumes typical of each period and culture recreated authentically and traditional crafts with their ritual implements and furnishings. It is like a moving museum. The highlight of the festival is the procession of the spirits of Emperors Kanmu and Komei. These two spirits probably watch over the cultural prosperity of Kyoto. Please enjoy a stroll through Heian Jingu and its beautiful garden.

Emperor Kanmu and Emperor Komei Timeline

737	Emperor Kanmu was born	Age=1	Nara Period
781	Emperor Kanmu was throned	45
785	Emperor Kanmu put an end of his younger brother, Crown Prince Sawara	49
787	Emperor Kanmu's lady passed away	51
790	Emperor Kanmu's mother passed away	54
790	Emperor Kanmu's legal wife, Emperess passed away	54
790	A smallpox epidemic broke out	54
794	The relocation of the capital to the city to Heian-kyo in Kyoto	58	Heian Period
806	Emperor Kanmu passed away, Emperor Heizei ascended the throne	70
809	Emperor Heizei abdicated and Emperor Saga ascended the throne	-
1831	Emperor Komei was born	Age=1	Edo Period
1846	Emperor Komei ascended to the throne	15
1853	Commodore Perry of the US entered port at Uraga at the entrance to Edo Bay	22
1854/3	The Treaty of Peace and Amity between the US and Japan was concluded	23
06/19	The Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the United States and Japan was concluded without an imperial sanction in 1858	23
07/07~08	The Emperor Komei’s letter sent to Mito domain	23
07/10	The Emperor Komei’s letter delivered to Tokugawa shogunate	23
1860/07/21	Emperor Komei accepted Princess Kazumiya's marriage to a subject, Shogun.	29
1860/12/16	Princess Kazunomiya entered into Edo Castle	29
1862	Katamori became Kyoto Shogoshoku	31
1863/1	Yoshinobu entered Kyoto	32
1863/4	Yoshinobu promised the Joi with the Imperial Court	32
1863/4~5	Emperor Komei ordered Joi and visited Kamo Shrines and Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine.	32
1864/03	Yoshinobu was appointed to the post to protect Kyoto Imperial Palace	33
1864/08	Kinmon incident, Yoshinobu fought and protected the Kyoto Palace	33
1867/01	Emperor Komei passed away	36
1867/11/10	Taisei Hokan, Tokugawa's political power was officially returned to Emperor Meiji	-

Recommendations to visit

Heian Jingu Shrine

• Access: 30 min from Kyoto Station. Take bus #5 bound for " Iwakura Soshajo-mae (岩倉操車場前)” at A1 or #86 following a circular route bound for "Kyoto Station via Chionin-mae (京都駅・知恩院前)” at D2. Got off at "Okazaki Koen Bijutsukan / Heian Jingu-mae (岡崎公園美術館・平安神宮前)" bus stop, then a 5-minute walk.